The Cumbrian Coast: A Walk Along the Edge
The north Cumbrian coast is a rugged, overlooked region that feels at the margins of everywhere else in the UK. It's a strip of towns and villages, farms and nature reserves, clinging to the low-lying littoral, battling nature, weather, geology, and geography throughout its history. Coastal erosion is a constant challenge, but the England Coast Path (ECP) has done sterling work in plotting a viable footpath and shoring it up.
I chose a three-day hike along the Cumbrian coast, starting at Maryport and ending at St Bees. My journey took me through Workington, Whitehaven, and Harrington, with a detour to the Howe, a hill originally created from industrial slag. The walk was a mix of pleasant surprises and challenging sections, with scarce waymarking and even impassable paths.
One of the highlights of my journey was the view of Dumfriesshire to the north, with few walkers on the empty strand. I also encountered a pair of sandwich terns, an "amber" status bird on the RSPB website, and a colony of kittiwakes nesting on tiny ledges.
The Cumbrian coast is more Morrissey lyric than Countryfile fantasy, with industrial plants and old workers' terraces in the background. The towns and villages along the way are a mix of nostalgia, grit, grandeur, and decay, with crumbling mansions and Victorian-era lighthouses.
Whitehaven, in particular, is a town with a rich history, having been an industrial powerhouse and the fifth most active British port involved in the transatlantic slave trade. The town's museums, such as The Beacon, offer a glimpse into its layered history, and the Howling Wolf Bakery and cafe serve delicious cakes and coffee.
The Edge hotel, which opened last October, is a striking and apt addition to Whitehaven, with its irregular polyhedral shape and rust-colored exterior. The hotel is committed to supporting coastal activities and community groups, with 16 ensuite rooms looking out over the marina.
The final leg of my journey took me to St Bees Head, with views of spectacular coves, secret beaches, and sheer cliffs. The ECP crossed paths with the Coast to Coast National Trail, and I met a few walkers heading inland for Ennerdale and Helvellyn. My only company was fulmars, cormorants, herring gulls, ravens, and kestrels.
Overall, the Cumbrian coast is a fascinating and underrated region, with a rich history, stunning scenery, and a mix of industrial and natural landscapes. It's a place that deserves to be explored and appreciated, and I highly recommend a walk along its rugged edge.
